Big Fish!

At random:

Monkeys patrol St Lucia stealing bananas from vendors when they are away.

Kayaking in the estuary... hippos everywhere, a croc swims under our kayaks swirling the water viciously and lifting us. Our guide, Stiaan, looks like young Steve Irwin and tells us that Irwin himself said these were the most dangerous waters in the world and that he would not put a toe in them. Maybe he is bullshitting. We see a saddlebilled stork and goliath heron among many many other birds. Mud fight ensues afterward.

Next day we walk in the wetlands and mangroves. Cape buffalo keep a watchful eye on us, and us on them. We walk faster and they walk faster toward us.

Stiaan pretend to be a hippo and shakes our tent at night. To make up for it he takes me at night to find a chameleon. I am slightly wary of him, but he is true to his word and soon I am holding one in my hands inspecting it in the trucks headlights.

We go to a lake to find ducks.. . (bird list provided later for those who care). Trail smells of genets. Man tells us zulu and swazi stories (will tell later also...). We watch an ant lion eat its prey.

Zulu dancing.... pulled a groin muscle. Spastic...drumming...kicking legs over head and shoulders.

Swaziland:
Ate impala stew. Stayed in Mliliwane wildlife sanctuary. Swazi dancing. Hiked up Execution Rock on my birthday. I wonder what it would be like to walk to my execution, and I think near the top that I might be ready to die by the time I got there. Eland, warthogs, crocs, mpala, blesbok, nyala on the way. Bee-eater birds fly out of their holes in the red banks by the river bed. Vibrant purple jaracunda flowers everywhere compliment the greenery and the red dirt.

Mozambique:
The bus ride here is horrendous. We almost collide with stubborn and apathetic cattle several times and a man crossing the road. We arrive and soon I am learning german by the bonfire. Laughing. Next morning we launch the boat from the beach and the waves crash over us and people fall everywhere. We get out to the open ocean. I swim with 11 whale sharks, and a manta ray swims directly toward me. I look down and it is 3 feet under me and it is MASSIVE! A small hammerhead swims by. I am in heaven under the water. I never want to return to land.

There is so much more... but I will have to write it later. The internet place closes in 3 minutes.

Much love from Tofo.